07-10-2022, 01:38 AM||# 10|. See you replaced clutch twice. It seems when it reaches 1/2 way in, it just stops, and if I force it, it gets jammed and wont spin anymore.. ANY ideas? I have removed my final drive and driveshaft, while re-installing my wheels with new tires, and I can't get them back on the bike. They REALLY get stuck on there. 11-22-2011, 11:53 AM||# 19|. Nissan Truck Videos (Builds-Racing-Shows-Tech). 8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4. Location: Colfax-California. I have one that is off. I can't get front drive shaft to push back into transfer case. 11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.
Location: Crown Point, NY and Punta Gorda, FL. Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests. If I try any harder I'm gonna strip these Allen bolts and be completely screwed.
I put the universal with the long side to the rear. Yeah maybe I was thinking of disconnecting the half-shafts. My car has 160000 miles. I will look at loosening the engine & trans mounts and see if I can get any movement. If I wait 10 days for payday, I could buy one. Location: Lucas, TX.
How deeply is the oil seal seated in its housing? If it makes more of a resonant ring, then the obstacle is the steel of the output shaft, and I have no idea why that's happening. Thank you again for your help I have a small tip to add. He is coming by tomorrow to help me.
Maybe I'm not the one to be giving advice....... I think that just all that surface area mated up over the years fuses itself together. One dealership we gave them permission to cut and put it in. So I finally broke it free. The front drive shaft is ok with just enough room to install. The splines are jamming? Driveshaft will not go in. In reply to Sharp: It might be ok. Good effort in getting it done, when you've finished could you write it all down so I can follow it if I ever decide to do the job on my focus, it sounds like it may need it soon. But I guess I'll go to the shop with the attitude and see if they can do it without being jerks. What am I missing here? Time to replace them if they are comming loose. The carrier bearing is at least available as a replacement so if you matched the U-Joint up you could re-use the shaft.
When you achieved that the u joint came out easy. In reply to EeeByGum) Hi, think I've managed to get it back in without removing the gaiter, it definitely felt like it was sliding into something but it still feels loose moving in and out, the car is in gear and now it's pushed back I can't turn the shaft around. Last summer I was taking off from a stop, BANG!, the bolts in the caps came loose and the shaft spun out of the yolk. About the sametime of the day that I was frustratingly pulling everything! Have you secured the boot with a circlip or jubilee? Once you've done this and also removed the three bolts holding in the diff along with removing the half shafts from the diff, the diff should be able to be pulled right off of the drive shaft with a little coaxing. In reply to Sharp: there is usually a circlip on the end of the shaft and that is all that holds them in, once the shaft is out they normally need a good whack to compress the clip and pop it back into its recess. Parking - Car with broken left driveshaft won't stay in park. I pulled the transmission completely out as well as the driveshaft. Comp extreme marine 278 cam, vette 7 fin valve covers, old polished edelbrock intake, velvetdrive, casale v-drive, adj cavitation plate. This was my first time doing this on any vehicle so I am definitely a rookie.
But they had nylon plastic devices meltedin to the caps to prevent them coming apart. I found the part - Spicer 1280-1310-1410,. I am trying to replace the u-joint mating the slip yoke to the rear shaft. If you're going to live like there's no hell............... Can't get driveshaft back on track. you'd better be right.... Hey guys. The drive shaft would not fit. Nappa sells the hardware to retain the u jonts. The transmission bolts are all out, I am going to drop it tomorrow morning and see if I can get a better view of what's going on.
One of the things the tech told me was that those bolts only need to be torqued to 12 ft. Lbs. Since one axle shaft is gone on your vehicle, this allows the power to go out through it the brokens side of the differential without moving the vehicle. Post your own photos in our Members Gallery. There is about a inch gap between them preventing me from starting the bolts into the thread. It's hard to get the right angle on it when it's in the car. Am I missing something? Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 11:33 pm. Just use some locktite and tighten them down. Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC. To remove it I unbolted the driveshaft from the differential then unbolted the two bolts for the "center support" (for lack of a correct term). Can't get driveshaft back in black. I put the drive shaft back in and measured the gap showing from having to move the yoke to mate to the shaft. When I lined up the weight markers (as was said on YouTube to do) and slid the yolk in it just stopped. The end of the driveshaft seems to go INTO the cup that connects to the differential and I don't see any spot to slip a screw driver/pry tool in to pry them apart.
Location: Baldwin, MD. Engine: 1970&92 Cams, both BBC's. 2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT. Or do the splines bottom out? I hammered a bit on the rear shaft trying to force it into the transfer case, but no luck. I wrestled with my driveshaft for about 2 hours before giving up. Can't get driveshaft back in roblox. The U-joint from the Transmission? I may give it another round tomorrow and see what happens, just seems like the stupidest problem ever. Well, I popped the new seal out (this is the whole casing that the dealer sells along with the rubber seal), and the shaft still doesn't go in, even with that missing. I could always force it but that something I don't like ever doing.
I will do that tomorrow. Finally had a chance to really look at what's going on.