Ideally, run an older or universal-type starter that still has an "R" terminal or equivalent bypass circuit. Finally was able to replicate the problem in my garage. I repaired those wires in the pic, and have put the truck back on the road. If your engine cranks over and refuses to start check for ignition spark (A tester is best for HEI ignitions) Test the fuel pump pressure and associated relays and fuses. If none of the above steps engages the most likely needs to be replaced. 2023 Honda CR-V vs. Chevy Truck Fuel At TBI - No Start. Toyota RAV4, Subaru Forester, Kia Sportage, Hyundai Tucson, Nissan Rogue, Mazda CX-5. He says I needed new spark plugs because I had never changed them so changed those out and she starts for a little bit and then didn't want to start and that's been a few weeks now but this past week, now when I put key in I can hear door dinging, lights come turn key and one click and it's completely shuts off all power again. Connect a spark tester to the plug wire or coil. If the engine still won't start, the most likely culprit is a lack of compression. Im sorry im so uninformed its been hard for me to find all this info for some reason.
I think it has something to do with the timing but I'm not exactly sure where to go from here. Driveability issues will usually be corrected when the engine is receiving its basic compression, good fuel pump pressure, clean fuel filter, restriction free exhaust system and.. 5.7 tbi cranks but wont start a business. a good spark supplied to all cylinders. They are not producing aerosolized spray, but rather they produce heavy droplets and even liquid gas that pools up on the throttle plates. Am 400 miles from home.
What else could be wrong? I hooked a spark checker to cylinder #1 and it indicated that I was getting good spark. Try and start the car, and make sure it doesn't drop below ten volts when cranking. As far as the rear seal... I can hear the pump cycling like normal, and after I prime it it runs normally.
Key off, turn key again, starts up and runs great. Advance carries compression testers that thread into the spark-plug holes and read compression when you turn the engine over. Last edit: 03 Jul 2017 20:58 by Tyler. I very much appreciate that information. Crank / no start is a symptom of low fuel pressure. TBI 350 needs prime to start| Grassroots Motorsports forum. When sensors or solenoids fail... they are kaput and the issues that their failures cause, are generally not intermittent ones. Also, it's not the neutral switch, fuel pump, exhaust or anything else past the battery if there's no crank.
I've driven it about 400 miles at a stretch since replacing the crankshaft position sensor and coil with no problem. Many stores like NAPA in my area will test the distributor module for free if you bring it in. See if the coil is delivering spark by pulling the coil wire from the distributor cap and connecting a spark tester to it before cranking the engine and watching the tester for spark. It is possible for the module to produce spark without the computer getting a reference pulse. In the meantime check the wiring for any bad grounds or issues. I changed the fuel filter yesterday morning, primed it afterwards, and it started and ran normally with the prime (just like it has since this started). Distributor wires and plugs are new. Crank the engine for two to three seconds and read the gauge. If we put a little pit of gas in the TBI it will run. The key must be turned off for a certain amount of time before it will prime the system again when turned back on. Engine cranks but does not start. 1 terminal, so long as the cap terminals are still in proper firing-order sequence (for a Chevy, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, clockwise rotation). Again, it cranked fine but it did not fire at all. He was driving home from work and it just stopped.
I special ordered it and bought it new, keeping detailed records -including everytime gasoline has been added, the mileage, amount of gasoline, octane, and cost- as well as maintenance/repair records. I figured out that it was the throttle body going bad. I did see someone post on another forum that the 5. 1 cap terminal, housing, and rotor should also line up. Hello Holly, The best thing to do is start from scratch here. Check the ignition control module and its connector. One clue this is happening is if the timing keeps wandering—it won't stay put where you set it at. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 5.7 tbi cranks but wont start a new. Cranky Chevy 350 Distributor Install is Late at Top Dead Center. If the engine fires for a moment and then dies, you'll need to take a closer look at the fuel-supply system and carburetor settings.
No spark from ignition points. I also have same like problem, have 85 GMC C1500 305. starts,,, runs,,,, went to walmart other day about 5 miles, pulled in parking lot it shut off, wouldn't start again, waited about 2-3 hrs later it started ran back home about 5 miles ran it did same thing again, just turns off like ya turn key off. Hello Guru9TDR4, When you say that sometimes your Sierra will crank over and starts then quits, and other times it will not crank that mean nothing happens sometimes?.. Chevy 350 TBI help - Won't start. Another way would be to pull the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor spins while cranking. You should see gas being squirted as you move the throttle.
I've been having the same issues on my 99 gmc, once or twice a month and it starts great the rest of the time, no one can find the issue. Replace the coil wire and remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor turns when the engine rotates. So it seemed to me at that point we have some kind of intermittent problem (I know, call me Captain Obvious! The following user(s) said Thank You: Noah. Your engine overheating issues could be a sacked water pump (you should see coolant leaking from the front of the pump drain hole. )
And I know engine is still good. This is especially important in fuel injected engines and those with electric fuel pumps. Maybe it was just tired, wanted a ride, and then to rest overnight Seriously, it didn't seem to be weather related (rain, temp, etc), engine temp related, oil pressure (all good), or miles driven (drove it about 500 miles at a stretch a couple of times with no problem, then after about 100 miles, it died). Now it's over heating and I just topped up the coolant but it'll overheat just sitting idling for 10 minutes. After replacing fuel pump & filter & spending a couple thousand dollars on towing & repair shops (always happens away from home), GM dealer/shop said problem was crankshaft position sensor. Some TBI systems won't squirt unless the engine is cranking. Any used vehicle could also require a future investment to ensure reliable operation. Time to create page: 0. The computer needs to receive a distributor reference pulse from the distributor module to trigger the injectors. May be at limit of relay. Thank you for the reply! No fuel/ bad pump, bad filter. I'm not sure how to test it other than put a heat gun or blow dryer on it and see if you can make it die were pretty common causes of dieing hot and starting cold. So my engine is not tbi?
You have to ask the computer if any error codes are present. OBD I Codes 1988 -1995 GMC Trucks 13 - O2 (oxygen sensor) circuit open 21 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit high (signal voltage high) 22 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit low (signal voltage low) 33 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit high (low vacuum) 34 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit low (high vacuum) 53 - System voltage high (supply to ECM/PCM) 55 - ECM/PCM error A failure of any of the above components would result in a code. Sometimes the engine will spin over faster and sound funny when the timing chain breaks or there is internal engine damage. Not sure why the transmission is relevant. If it ever happens again, you know it's good for about 30mi. This is especially true with fuel injected and computer-controlled engines. Sounds like the injectors are randomly not getting pulsed.
I don't think these TBI systems have Schrader valves, so you may have to get a gauge in-line with the pressure side. Truck was stolen, when I got it back it wouldn't stay running. Replied by Rockyroad on topic 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500 - cranking, no start. There are literally dozens of different part numbers for 350 transmissions and there are companies that have rebuilds on the shelf that match your transmissions part number or are matched to your vehicles VIN number. Hopefully and prayerfully it's fixed! I think it is the ignition switch on top of steering column behind dash on top of steering column. Then I used a hair blower for 3 min on the cap and rotor. Using a feeler gauge, check and adjust this gap to specification. It only had 96K @ 20 years old. A faulty starter will not cause both issues. The timing tab and balancer must be a "matched" team.
Any mechanic event look at it has no direct answer but to start replacing different parts, the older cars you could open the solenoid and there is a plunger what's a metal washer inside I believe it's made out of brass we used to flip that over and put it back together and it work like a brand new starter, the large round washer looks my cat has a lot of marks on one side from contacting the voltage once flipped over it's like on the brand new side works fine. Was your battery back to 12. There are instruction on testing fuel pressure in this link.
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