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Many of them are elderly, so — as one might expect — in most months a few of them pass away. 2 teaspoons (10g) kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume or the same weight. Cold dishes first - amazingly tender, custardlike tofu, a reproach to the flannel-like stuff often served outside China, topped with coriander and chili oil; ma lan tou, made from the crunchy stems of the boltonia flower (a member of the aster family that I grow, but don't eat, at my farm in Pennsylvania); "drunken" chicken, marinated in rice wine; and kaofu, bran cubes flavored by five-spice soy sauce.