I measured my angles with my phone, my rear TC is at 2. Did you shim the axle or drop the rear of the trans or??? Need more lift, would the drive shaft be ok? Of course you will need to measure with an angle finder what degree of degree shim to plug and chug. Now the arms are close to the bump stops and i want to lift it to get more space to the lower control arm.
Any thoughts/advice are much appreciated! Also lets face it who doesn't want more lift? I already have a high speed vibration that i'm trying to get rid of. So it's a bit higher than the ideal of 1 degree difference (due to acceleration forces pointing the pinion up), but not crazy-bad.
Because I cant go back to chunking u joints every couple months since that's what was happening from all the axle wrap I had or at least I believe that was the issue. I don't know if he built it or if he bought it but it helped. No broken shims as there are none. I think I should get adjustable UCA's and slightly adjust the angle prior to fixing the loose bearing/leaks. Go into it knowing that and budgeting for it and no big deal. Lifted truck drive shaft angle correct position. It will give you warning before it goes - vibrations, grease spatters, torn boot. Can someone confirm?
I could go to a 1 piece shaft but there not cheap and I would still have to work the driveline angles. I am still using the 2" lift blocks that came in the kit originally (I made sure the tapper is positioned correctly). With the 2" blocks and new leafs its like I have 3" lift blocks in now. You might want to consider getting rid of that driveshaft spacer too, it shouldn't be necessary.
Like from the transmission to the pinion and axle housing. Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts. You can also buy shims.. Need more lift, would the drive shaft be ok. That should help the slip yoke in the transfer case sit further inward. Vibration comes and goes with suspension compression. Sounds about right I think after rear end torque. I had a local 4x4 shop custom build a bracket that dropped the carrier about 3"s and while it did help the vibration it didnt eliminate it, I went back to the place and informed the owner that it still had a vibration and he said he dropped it as much as he could and I would have to "live with it" cost me 100. But due to the loose bearing it's impossible to know what's causing what now--and I don't remember when the vibe it started.
Reason I ask is becasue I rebuilt my entire rear suspension, new 2, 025lbs leaf packs, new hangers, and new Bilstein 5100 Shocks. I've got an HDJ81 with a 6" lift and since I bought it a year ago the rear output bearing on the TC has become loose AND the output seal on the rear diff has started leaking. The pinion into the transfer case still shows a shiny area 1/2 inch long indicating it has not always been exposed. The vibration on my truck has been so bad that I stopped driving it and have been just driving my car for the last while. I am of the opinion this is 100% due to the pinion angle but I am not sure why some people do not suffer from it like I have been. Confused......... Last edited by slbaseballdad; 02-13-2016 at 11:56 PM. And before I start raising and lowering my carrier bearing or shimming the axle housing. There did used to be a weird buzz during acceleration at a specific (narrow) RPM which I attributed to an exhaust rattle (because it sounded like a loose piece of sheet metal rattling under the rear of the car). However, that has randomly disappeared for some reason. I should be putting these on this weekend so I will update the thread with hopefully a post about no vibrations. Seems expensive, but so is fixing the bearing and leak! Lifted truck drive shaft angle vibration. I pushed it in to cover the shiny area and then measured how much more it could push in. Transfer case points down 6. I want to know what others have and it you have had similar issues.
Join Date: Feb 2008. I did an 8" rize lift on an 06 SCrew with a 6. 03-05-2011 08:06 PM. Maybe a 1/16 of an inch play. A rear DC driveshaft (and even double DC shaft) is also an option and has helped other folks. Think about longer the driveshaft, the lesser then angles will be versus a shorter driveshaft and that same amount of lift. I'm curious to see what everyone else has for angles. Another driveline angle question. I posted a while back about having a drop bracket made for my carrier bearing after my lift was installed but im still having problems with a shudder /vibration when starting from a stop. OLD - Suspension, Tires, & Wheels.
Join Date: Jun 2010. Location: Maricopa, AZ. Any Constructive suggestions and inputs would be greatly appreciated. I'd doubt you'll get any vibes doesn't happen unless you run more than 5" or so (using stock pinion and transfercase angles). Could someone let me know what there drive line angles are for the 2 piece driveshaft? My mech seems to think I could have serious issues, like shearing the shaft if I drive highway driving so I need to get this fixed. Changing from a stock Dana 30 or 44 front axle to a high pinion Dana 60 raises the front pinion height by a fair amount, so driveline angle changes are very minimal. The max from the documentation posted above says no more than 3 or you get conflicting sin waves which result in the vibration. Impact of lift on drive shaft angle. Lift blocks are square. You should be fine though.
I have non-adjustable arms in the rear on both the LCA and UCA. I currently have a slight vibe at highway speeds (even after putting the shaft in phase). I'm starting to believe my vibration is coming from the drive line angles being slightly off. 11-02-2009 11:21 PM. 11-28-2007 08:30 PM.
7 degrees at the pinion, the total difference is 1. Its got a rough country lift, looks like about 7" and my local mech says the D/S from the transfer case to the rear end is to extreme. Pretty serious vibration 55mph to 65mph. 5 inches, I knew i had to uncrank the torsion bars a little but not as much as I did.
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