My mech seems to think I could have serious issues, like shearing the shaft if I drive highway driving so I need to get this fixed. I emailed zone offroad, they said a two piece drive shaft is rare and there kit does not include any spacers, but one of there vendors installed a carrier bearing relocation bracket from a f250/350 and it worked. I measured my angles with my phone, my rear TC is at 2. I'm starting to believe my vibration is coming from the drive line angles being slightly off. Smartest words today!!!! 2 piece driveshaft angles with 6" lift. And before I start raising and lowering my carrier bearing or shimming the axle housing.
It was quite a bit less than getting the pre built ones from toytec. Location: Maricopa, AZ. The pinion into the transfer case still shows a shiny area 1/2 inch long indicating it has not always been exposed. Go into it knowing that and budgeting for it and no big deal. I've done a bit of searching but thought I would do a quick post and see what people's thoughts were. 11-17-2010 11:59 PM. Here is a picture of my diff angle, by scaling it I am approximately 6 off. 11-02-2009 11:21 PM. This does not strike me as coincidental. After i had the front 0. Now the arms are close to the bump stops and i want to lift it to get more space to the lower control arm. Lifted truck drive shaft angle blog. U. S. Military - Veteran.
But due to the loose bearing it's impossible to know what's causing what now--and I don't remember when the vibe it started. Measured on the fins of the differential and transfer case, Diff is 7 degrees up, transfer case is 5 degrees down. Lifted truck drive shaft angle sensor. Does that sound about right? Anyways I would like to fix it as its really annoying and now it appears to have worn my carrier bearing and U-joints, I know there are guys that repaired theres on here so I really could use some help. There did used to be a weird buzz during acceleration at a specific (narrow) RPM which I attributed to an exhaust rattle (because it sounded like a loose piece of sheet metal rattling under the rear of the car). 09-22-2008 04:34 PM.
Perhaps that was actually my driveline prior to the bearing getting loose?!? RazorsEdge, nice sig quote! The more I learn the more I come to the conclusion that the my best bet is to put skid plates on the JKUR and run it stock. If you start getting vibes at highway speeds, then throw a degree shim under your leaf packs to correct the pinion angle. I'm new here, just got a 1999 2 dr Z71. I could go to a 1 piece shaft but there not cheap and I would still have to work the driveline angles. 6" lift and a two piece drive shaft. 6" lift and a two piece drive shaft. 7 degrees at the pinion, the total difference is 1. However, that has randomly disappeared for some reason. RubiconSS this is EXACTLY what I'm trying to do. 00 to have him install a piece of 3" square tubing under my carier and now he tells me im going to have to live with it, what a crock! 6 degrees, the shaft at 12. Any thoughts/advice are much appreciated!
A couple weeks ago I pulled the rear drive shaft and drove around in fwd for a week it was so bad. Looking at the angle on mine and wondering what everyone else has and if there have been any issues with it. They lifted it a lot more then 3. Pretty serious vibration 55mph to 65mph.
I already have a high speed vibration that i'm trying to get rid of. With the 2" blocks and new leafs its like I have 3" lift blocks in now. I have a 2wd edge and last weekend I put my fabtech spindles on my truck. You should be fine though. Pulled a rear section driveshaft from a donor truck (Original yoke was worn out) had the driveshaft re balanced with 3 new SKF u joints and new carrier bearing. Another driveline angle question. My friend has a 04 F350 longbed crewcab with a 12" suspension lift. 5 bed along with an add-a-leaf and it was fine, but I remember the shaft being a 1 piece. I welded that back up and made the vibration significantly worst. Almost no one spends the money to do it right though. I want to know what others have and it you have had similar issues. 7 degrees out of spec enough to cause these issues? Think about longer the driveshaft, the lesser then angles will be versus a shorter driveshaft and that same amount of lift. If dependability and reliability are concerns, stay as close to stock as possible.
Reason I ask is becasue I rebuilt my entire rear suspension, new 2, 025lbs leaf packs, new hangers, and new Bilstein 5100 Shocks. Since the diff will torque up under power, I figure the diff should be 4 degrees up instead of 7. hows my thinking?
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