Roots in PamplonaLike all great ideas, said McDonnell's friend Michael Howard, this one started over a couple of beers. "The Sun Also Rises". Walsh looked over the sweaty, staggering-drunk-by-midafternoon crowd like a proud father. She wrestled the bull to the ground as the fatador. "The whole town's abuzz, " he said. This year, there will be a dignitaries section with local politicians. Someone bought scores of giant foam fingers that said, "Go bull! " "That's what makes Dewey Beach unique. Anyway, he talked Howard into going to Pamplona's Festival of San Fermin instead, and there they were, watching the running of the bulls. And some guy's planning to propose to his girlfriend tomorrow at the bull ring. This year, for the first time, they didn't rent a group house. Or as Fargus said, "It's so much fun... Mothers will grab their children and weekend visitors will jump out of the way as throngs appear over the dunes, yelling "Toro, toro! " Sometimes odd things happen at the beach.
Two years ago, Fargus entered the ring in a sumo costume after the matador was gored. And then watching two angry bulls turn around and thunder back at them. They videotaped the first Running of the Bull, camera lurching alongside 40 or so friends dressed in white with two guys in a ratty old rented bull costume, people on the beach confused, little kids chasing after them. Tomorrow afternoon here in Dewey Beach, police will shut the main drag as hundreds of people surge through the two-block-wide Delmarva town and storm the beach. Friends launched a protest movement, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animal Costumes, waved signs and got handcuffed to a pole.
This is the 10th year of a tradition created on a whim that inexplicably ignited: the Running of the Bull, apologies to Pamplona. Elvis will be there. "It would be great, " McDonnell said. Some guy will play Spanish songs on a little guitar as the crowd weaves out, shouting and whacking the bull with rolled-up newspapers. In the '90s, when McDonnell and Walsh started renting beach houses, the town was dominated by summer weekend people like themselves crashing on sofas to sleep it off. Those who kept coming noticed they were starting to like the slow off-season, too, and going out to dinner rather than just grabbing a slice between bars. A cow arrived and flirted with the bull. They laughed about what idiots they were -- until the bulls came back about a minute later.
When the DJ plays "Wooly Bully, " the crowd will go nuts. Last year, McDonnell wore a Batman costume: the batador. Drinking on the beach was legal until the mid-'80s, one of the last holdouts. Dewey Beach, which swells from just over 300 people in the off-season to 60, 000 some weekends in July, has been changing. Other beach houses made signs to hang on decks and hosted sangria parties, cheering as the bull ran by. Then, after the run, they'll head back to the bar for a ridiculous semblance of a bullfight. "It's stupidity for stupidity's sake.
Planes fly over the beach trailing banners: Look out for the bull! At a neighboring bar, the band stopped mid-jam to sing "Olé, olé olé olé! " They were all running, packed close together.... It seemed like the Spaniards knew what to do, and only the two Americans were scrambling for cover, hopping a fence as the bulls raced by. Montgomery was a Dewey bartender when the bull running started, then he bought the Starboard and began promoting the event a few years ago.
"People like to goof around at the beach, " McDonnell hazarded. Bud Light is a sponsor. That changed it: Now there's a new bull costume, all clean and smiling, instead of glowering. "If Hemingway was right... and you should 'always do sober what you said you'd do drunk, ' " McDonnell wrote on their beach house Web site, "then doesn't it also follow that you should always do drunk what you swore you'd never do sober? And maybe not chasing so much as stumbling blindly inside the fleecy costume. Now police shut down Route 1 to the disgust of people who have driven hours only to get stuck in a baking-hot traffic jam a few agonizing miles from Rehoboth Beach or Bethany Beach.
"It had run its course, " Walsh said. The instigators were, of course, a Washington corporate lawyer, Michael McDonnell, and his beach house buddies who weekend in this laid-back, sunburned, bloody-marys-to-take-the-edge-off town. McDonnell had read it a few too many times, he said. Going CorporateSteve Montgomery pulled a red-foam bull horn over his head upstairs at the Starboard this week, laughing, and showed Walsh the matador hats and whips he got to hand around the bar. People plan summer vacations around this. John Hardy, who owns a hot-tub store and deejays in town, said he remembers all kinds of crazy antics back in the 1970s, like people setting up pulpits in the sand and acting as faith healers curing people of pregnancy. Well, two people in a bull suit, actually. Walsh keeps saying it's his last time as the bull. Then charge along the surf with a bull chasing them.
The crowd shouted along. A bookie calculated odds and took bets on the bullfight, which often ended with someone falling to the ground and squirting little packets of ketchup. They both started laughing. Money raised from T-shirt sales is donated to the town. When they came home, they wanted to recreate the Carnaval-meets-Mardi Gras feel of Pamplona, so they planned a beach party with paella and sangria, and someone -- probably Andrew Brady, now a Securities and Exchange Commission attorney from Bethesda -- said they needed a bull, too. Howard and Brady got married and got out. I'd be crazy not to. It has become a little quieter, a lot pricier, with more condominiums and more children. Walsh blinked, swallowed some Guinness, thinking.
"Suddenly a crowd came down the street. "We didn't so much run with the bulls as hide from the bulls, " said Howard, now a real estate agent in Rockville. Garrett Walsh, District software developer and longtime head of the bull, and Jamie Fargus, Bethesda research coordinator and tail, will shimmy in, suited up. And: "We were screaming like little girls. It was always rowdy. Just as the Spaniards had anticipated.
Then one year while finishing law school, he ended up with plane tickets to Spain for a wedding -- long story. They'll gather with celebrants in white shirts and red bandanas at the Starboard bar. Then again... Last week, over beers in Dupont Circle, McDonnell leaned forward and said, "I think we should rent a tandem bike.
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