I don't know if you need it, but thought I would add it in the event it would help. I checked them for spark outside of the engine and they sparked. It has sat unused for (6-7) years, but did run prior to sitting. You can find this information in your vehicle's repair manual.
So looking for some advice on what to check for. If the engine starts when a particular injector has been unplugged; that's the shorted injector that needs to be replaced. Doing that will tell you if your problem is or isn't fuel related, nothiing more or less. Make sure it's good. The tool detects digital signals in a circuit and flashes an LED light. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark oil. I just rebuilt the heads on a 97 5. Wait awhile, then try it again. Replaced, because the mechanic said it was bad.
15k on a new GM engine. The 98.............................. HAS.......................... a crank sensor my 97 has one you self (and me) and look at the passengers side of the crank right behind the ballancer and there you WILL find a crank sensor!!!!!!! 002" is less than the diameter of a human hair. All you need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip. 2. also its a 97 gmc Sierra 1500 extended cab with it being a 97 there is not a passlock security system on it they were put on in 98 any help will be awesome just need this thing to run. You checked the fuel pressure it was 61 psi, put the gauge back on and crank the engine, if the injectors are opening you should see a pressure drop, about 5-10 psi then recover back to 61 psi. There is one guy who says he has replaced nearly a dozen ignition switches in GMs for this exact problem. My buddy just called and told me this. 7 vortec no spark from coil condition can prevent your truck from starting, so it is an issue you want to fix quickly if it is happening to you. Today I started it same thing I left it for awile came back now it won't start at all, I rechecked fuel and spark all good please help. 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark will. Hook the main fuel lines up, the wiring back up, unplug the coil wire from the distributor so it doesn't start and crank it over to see if it is spraying fuel out of the 8 little lines. The rail will hold 65 psi forever if the engine is not cranked, so it is not a check valve problem.
Now if son would just bring back timing light. Next I thought the ECM itself but it too is only a few months old. It had spark in the atmospheric pressure, but once the spark plug is in the cylinder with compression, the spark can not jump the gap. It started cranking for a few seconds longer on Wednesday. IF if did and its clearly a fuel related issue and we are on the right track. About a week ago it would barely start and using 1/4 throttle helped it start and then it would idle really rough on about 5 cylinders and slowly clean up and run ok. now it just wont start, it winds over and over and will not fire up. He says I can also get an inspection mirror and look at the switch, it probably has a charred plastic body. 98 5.7L cranks but no start, new fuel pump, cap, and rotor. I am a DYI guy with a decent knowledge base mechanically but This thing has me about whipped. I'm not convinced all the ingredients are in place. I have got the parts from a local pick n pull including ignition coil, crank sensor after looking at 25 vehicles I found 1 so seems to be problematic, cam sensor or ignition pickup from inside distributer, and ignition componet that is mounted to the same bracket as the coil connected to the heat sink. But what could it hurt? Join Date: Oct 2008.
Every other time I turn it over it just spins. I understand these trucks use a timed fuel pump circuit for startup, then the firing engine should produce 15 psi oil pressure, which closes the sending unit switch to restart the fuel pump for run status. Plugs are older than 6 months auto light coopers but look fine. Engine Will Not Start - But, Fuel Pump, Spark And Compression Are Good. Replace the affected plug if you see this or other signs of damage. Thanks for the vid seabright. Now as far as checking for stuck injectors, pulling the plenum and injectors all out to find out if they are working is very much time consuming and not necessary.
I decided to look under the distributor cap. I've read quite a bit on this forum and elsewhere of the nightmares people have gone through getting aftermarket parts for this truck, prompted by your post above... Ok then.... 41-993 it is. Posts: 1, 311. do you have a check engine lite on, with key on engine off? Simperfi84 wrote: My next step, and I'm checking to see if any one of the injectors is sticking open. I had the same problem not to long ago... 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and sparks. |12-17-2011, 08:25 PM||# 8|. Before you return the Durlast, take the ignition module with may be able to test it. You may have a blown fuse to that circuit and it powers all of the injectors. How To Fix No Spark?
I pulled the opti and it looked like hell and smelled like a fried computer. Thanks a bunch in advance! So, if the specification calls for 3 ohms and an injector measures only 1 ohm; it will pull more current. Reads like the spark is low which could be coil, ignition module, cap, rotor, wires. Engine cranks, no start, gas fumes/smoke puffs out of intake. I have removed the dizzy cap and looked for anything dirty or out of place and it looked good. It runs out of fuel after initial firing and then if you keep the key at start you are just cranking it. If you look at pic 2, I highlighted a fuse. Anything that prevents voltage from jumping a spark plug's electrode gap will cause loss of spark. Cap off, does the rotor turn? I have seen this a few times where the coil sends out a spark, but since the spark is weak, it causes problems. I do have 62 psi fuel with key on.
I have seen this style of injector, actually end up with all 8 stuck after sitting just 7 months. The first place you should start if you have a no spark condition is the ignition coil. No flashes from the injector circuit when cranking the engine; would tell you the (PCM) is not pulsing the injectors. However I haven't seen one shut off while running because of injectors just all of a sudden plugging up, so you still may have issues elsewhere. TIP: You can also measure the resistance of each injector with an ohmmeter.
The one thing I haven't seen you mention that you've tested is for injector pulse. Realized he didn't have any power looked down all the guages were zeroed. We are at the place where parts prices start at $75 quickly rise past $150 a part from there. Did you see if the injectors are firing? Time to create page: 0. The fact it wouldn't fire with fuel squirted is a dead giveaway your spark is weak or missing. Transmission: 700R4. Good spark at the coil, but bad spark at the spark plug. He had another "ASE CERTIFIED GM " mechanic look at it. So if you dont have the GM service plug to hook up a diagnostic meter to that main plug the next best way I know to test it is to pull off the upper (plastic) intake, pull the little hoses out of the lower(aluminum) intake and leave them out where you can see them. 7, the other day I filled the tank half way and went back to the house.
I plan on double checking all eight cylinders for compression and spark when I get back to it. AC Delco 41-993 plugs,. Turns out I've had a faulty ground strap. Not too much slack and had not slipped. Also, when the balancer marks are lined up on the compression stroke, you stab the dist and line up the rotor with the small triangle (should have a 8 stamped in it) in the base of the dist. What you might have to do is spin the distributor to get it back in time. I drove home from work on Friday and the truck ran fine. Once you've assembled these tools, just follow these steps: - Determine what the resistance reading of the ignition coil should be for your vehicle. Checked fuel pressure on the rail and it hit almost 70 when I just had the key on. This pulse train should run thru the electrical ignition switch, he says. Recently Browsing 0 members. If it is, make sure there is power to it. If it is blown then you'll need to find what shorted the pink wires to most of the sensors and O2 sensors.
Check Engine Trouble Codes. I had one that was only a couple pounds off, and it would not start. You should have a nice cone shaped spray out of each nozzle. They probably only replaced the plugs on the passenger side.. found out the drivers side is more of a pain-in-the a**... got the truck running.. and then sold it. To actual end of plug wires?
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