There is not a building code for sistering joists as it is a reinforcement of an existing structure while codification refers to the primary design and construction standards. That is one of those issues which may well rest in the hands of a judge after all the attorneys have presented their side... i. e., that answer may not come easy or cheap. If you don't want to mess around with adding a beam and piers to reduce the span, then I'd use 2x10s and do it the way Bruce suggested. Jon, he doesn't have the top plate to run the sistered board onto, is what I'm getting from the post. You asked how to shot yourself in the foot, Aaron was explaining how to do that, we stepped in and tried to explain that shooting oneself in the foot is not a good idea. The cost of the wood should only run you a few hundred dollars, which is nothing compared to the thousands you might pay otherwise. We even want to know whether our contractor will fix the floor the right way, or whether they would trick us. Alternatively, you can use 4" carriage bolts at the same spacing. Seems excessive to have two layers of finished floor - and doubtful a hard finish would be allowed in separate dining room of multistory condo bulding. Be sure to not place a bolt or screw within the top or bottom 2 inches of the joist. Be cautious because if you jacked up the old joist too far, you might damage interior drywall, floors, or ceilings. A straight piece of lumber with the same length and width as an existing floor joist is installed flush against it. Seems you can't go wrong with duplicating the original joist when it's possible but are there cases where one is more appropriate than the other? Those joists must be sistered and bear on both ends to a wall or beam.
GD: Also be certain that, if there is someone occupying the space below you (2nd floor), you inform them that some minor cracking may occur in their ceiling. Everybody tells us how bad is going to be, but nobody has a good advice. You can usually tell that the joists need to be replaced when they crack or sag. What do you think about the clause in the association's capital improvement form along the lines of "if owner sells or transfers unit, association may require that owner restore unit to state prior to renovation"? Be sure not to notch over 1/6 the depth of the joist and no more than 1/3 the depth of the joist in length.
So you need to do this for all of the floor joists that span more than 12 feet, not just for the rotten ones, and for the spans on both sides of the center beam. You can measure it and then make the new joist the exact same size. The sistered portion (or metal plate) would have to be about 3/4 as long as the span to be effective. Since building code guidelines has no explicit language for sistering floor joists, you won't need building permits to sister a floor joist. If not, spanning the sistered joist as long as possible is ideal. Set a hydraulic jack and post under the beam, and jack up the joists about 1/8 in. Is the 1-½" adequate bearing for sistering floor joists? 2-by-6 or 2-by-8 lumber.
Lack Of Weight Support Due To An Insufficient Analysis Of Loads: This occurs often in the case of load-bearing walls and other special situations when additional support is required to hold up a joist. For the next cavity between sets of joists, stagger the blocking so that your new nails do not interfere with the sets you installed in the previous cavity. For this reason, there is not a building code for sistering joists as this activity is considered as a reinforcement of a framing structure. For more details on notching or drilling joists, see How to Safely Notch or Drill Floor Joists (& Alternatives). Your "plans" don't have any specifications or references regarding fire/draft blockiing/stopping, specifications for the "drywall" for ceilings, and "unit" perimeter walls, duct/vent containing sofits, etc. B) does not re-paint their house precisely the same shade as it was originally. While this obviously doesn't remove the broken one, it allows the new one to take on the strain of holding up the floor. Insert and tighten a 3/8 bolt. Fixing it is critical and you don't want to get it wrong. 01-14-2009, 08:11 PM #9. Simply add a joist of the same size to the side of each existing joist.
Subfloor repairs are one of the home projects we definitely recommend leaving to a professional. 02-28-2010, 09:28 AM #28. Joists 2 x 12 x 16" o. c. (perpendicular to girder). BUT when someone comes in with a question asking what and how to do something which COULD AFFECT THE STRUCTURAL SAFETY AND FIRE RESISTANCE of a structure THEY DO NOT EVEN OWN - yeah, *I* will definitely point that out for respect OF ALL THOSE WHO DO OWN that structure and ALL THOSE ON THE OTHER SIDE of the common walls and ceiling/floor systems. It is a very effective way of adding the additional strength needed to hold up a sagging floor. She, of course, will be researching the HOA covenants and receiving the proper authorization before she proceeds. Expect new cracks to form on walls and ceilings after they've been jacked up.
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