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So if anyone else has some suggestions, please post... Wish I could help with this but I took it apart in March and can't remember where the hoses where hooked up. Just wondering which vacuum line to tap for a boost gauge?
Speaking from experience, it's also the easiest way to identify when a small hose has popped off the intake manifold. I believe the solenoid has to do with boiling fuel or something on a hot restart. Location: South Carolina. Here is what I'm using for a setup. Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:19 am. Note - a standard 52mm boost gauge will not fit inside the WRX's ashtray cavity. 2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip. Wanted to see if my turbo'd peeps would help me out with the Vacuum lines for all the turbo goodies... A pic would be nice since I'm a visual learning... Have a good look under the bonnet to find a seal that isn't too crowded with wires and/or cables and prise it away from the firewall using a flat-blade screwdriver - be careful not to strain any wires or cables from inside the car. Some installations say to use the FPR line, but others say that doing so can affect the fuel pressure. Most boost gauges incorporate a bulb for nighttime illumination. 4 NA -- ~180k miles. I have been for a test drive. Been thanked: 44 times.
Connecting a boost gauge anywhere between the turbo compressor and throttle will give a too-high boost reading. 60trim wrote:Here is a little vid I decided to do for you guys to better understand how I ran mine and how it should be done. Current Volvos: 1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile). And i can see the boost on the gauge is about 0. I would start with a wastegate adjustment before I proceeded here. Have to have a load on the motor before it builds up boost. Please help im stupid this is my first turbo car and I know you are laughing at me which i can take lol. 2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in). Waste-gate and the blue to intake pipe and the bypass pipe to the vacuum tree. The boost gauge came with a tee fitting so i figured you were supposed to run one line from a vacuum source and one from a boost sourcesilviaks2nr wrote:your diagram really confuses me with all the t fittings. There is a newer transmission in the car that doesn't have a speed sensor on the diff. In the case of this particular install, we powered the boost gauge bulb from the illumination circuit for the cigarette lighter (which is immediately alongside).
I'm trying to install a boost gauge on my forte koup 1. 2001 MXZ 700 (SOLD). I'm thinking if I should reroute the vacuum hose.... Location: Louisiana. I used 1/8" barbed fittings in the manifold for the map sensor and meth controller. Later I got rid of the plastic "goose neck" and JB welded a brass fitting instead - should've done that from the beginning. When you say the same nipple under the manifold can be routed again to the FPR I'm assuming you mean the stock one? Another question is, what is the line that runs into the little filter shaped piece? Also I got the fake greddy bov (running low boost) and it has 2 ends to put tubing on? What exactly do I run for that? I can provide pictures if someone does not know what I'm talking about. Lines off the manifold go to map sensor for my electronic boost controller, meth injection controller, BOV. Went back to Hurricane's two pager of instructions to look at the image of what ports on the carb to attach to for vacuum line (because that's what I followed) and compared it to MPI's detailed instructions and the suggested ports to tap into are COMPLETELY different. 4 psi), a gauge that reads up to 1.
It looks like a fuel filter but it's not. Having settled upon a gauge location the next consideration was fitting and integration. I have one other free nipple (red circle). The most common positions to mount a boost gauge are the A-pillar, on the steering column, around the instrument binnacle or in various nooks and crannies throughout the dashboard.
Year and Model: 98 V70 T5. And I'm glad I can just get rid of the charcoal canister, but there is one sensor that exists in line with one of its venting lines. Only boost pressure can be measured along the path between the turbocharger and throttle body. If anyone can help point me in the right direction that would be much appreciated! Installing a Mechanical Boost Gauge.
The stock line that runs from the intake to the KLR allows the KLR box to measure boost pressure for engine/boost management purposes. I tapped 3 holes into the m50 manifold and an additional hole into the intercooler piping. Year and Model: 1994 850 T5 sedan. I have a capped connection on the front of intake manifold. I plugged my own vacuum hose to the same port as you show right behind the TB. Cool... just wanted to note that I changed mines up a bit.... Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:33 pm. We're led to believe that the same T-pieces are fitted to atmo versions as well.
It seems liek it's not working bu then out of nowhere it'll jump up to 5 then the needle will just stay there. As long as you get a good tight fit you can use anything you want. You then will have something that will never leak or break. Does anyone know if i can access this vacuum line without going under the car? MaxPSI uses silicone tubing. My plan is to run a maximum of 10 psi of boost. Red on compressor where there was no pipe, yellow on. Also, routing of all the other vacuum lines would be greatly appreciated. Join Date: Aug 2009. The car started and idled today (yea! The cars performance is not affected - its just not showing the correct pressure. As far as i know the turbo isn't really accessible without going under the car which i assume means the BOV or BPV is also down there.
Heres to the 2gn community. That being said, I was wondering exactly which vacuum lines can stay where they are on the m50 manifold (i. e the fuel pressure regulator, etc... ), and which need to be located (and where) to avoid boosting something that shouldn't be? I, m maybe a week or two away from installing my ka-t motor and it seems i may be a little mixed up on my boost and vaccum lines. Hope this helps a little bit. If u ever have the intake manifold off, you see the 3 lines going under it go to the back and meet up with other vacuum lines for egr and scv (butterflies) and other crap. Also I'll definitely be tapping the manifold now, but could plumbers tape be sufficient instead of epoxy?