My blower for the heater doesn't seem to blow very hard even on high. Then I attached the steering column and the shift indicator cable. My heat only comes from the vents and and when I change to defrost or floor it doesn't happen. Remove the two nuts holding the heater box to the firewall on the inside of the cab. Dodge ram 1500 vent selector not working. Shop O'Reilly Auto Parts for a replacement climate control module for your Dodge Ram, as well as blend door or vent door actuators, blower motor resistors, and more to make your repairs and keep your truck comfortable. Everything else seems correct, but won't stop blowing air from defrost when it's on floor only. Separate the upper and lower half of the heater box assembly and remove the A/C evaporator.
This can affect the comfort of your cabin, and may also affect the control of your blower motor or activation of the A/C compressor. I started with the interior nuts, then secured the four on the engine side of the firewall. The Geno's guys sent me a Cab Fresh exterior filter kit to keep the heater box clean going forward. My vent door won't heat blows cold air when on heat. Two are behind the ECU, one holds the AC condenser bracket and the other is located above the rear valve cover. As I mentioned earlier, note the pine needles blocking airflow. 2006 dodge ram vent selector not working. I finished by attaching the various trim panels. Remove one of the caps and install approximately two ounces of A/C oil. You will first need to evacuate the 134 from the system (or you can have a shop do it for you). Lift the driver's side off of the 13mm bolt and allow the dash assembly to rest on the steering column.
Finally I measured the discharge air temperature with the heat on maximum, 134°! Mode Door 1: This door regulates air flow to either the dash vents or defrost/floor. Remove one at a time and inspect the gears on it first. I did some searching and found no answer so here goes.
Disconnect the vacuum lines located to the right of the heater box assembly. Lenny Reed was driving Red Ryder back from the compound installation and sent me a snapshot of the overhead console with a temperature reading of 3°. I also inspected the blend doors for wear and tear and proper operation. What I suggest is this. Use OEM replacement parts. Remove the air box and the three screws securing the ECU to the firewall. Be sure to put a drain pan under the truck to catch the engine coolant. Failure is indicated by an inability to choose between defrost and floor. Here are two downside thoughts that come to mind: - Having mechanical connections on the cab side of the firewall is inviting a leak that will not be contained. Replace the cap prior to installing the heater box to keep the oil from spilling out. Blower doesn't blow very well. The mechanical swivel unit. No heat on the floor turned out to be a broken actuator coupler.
Images (Click to enlarge). Remove the entire box to facilitate inspection, cleaning and replacing of worn or broken parts as required. It can also control the climate control actuators below the dash that make the adjustments as needed to reach the desired vent position or temperature. Do you think I have another bad blower motor or could it be a wiring or maybe a ground issue? The heater box's design now contains leaking fluids. Vent selector not working. ) There is an excellent write-up on these doors and how to replace here: My heater controler is stuck on vent and won't go back to defrost on mt 2010 ram 1500 so can you please tell me haw to fix the problem please. The new Garrett turbochargers are looped through the heater core and that raised some concerns as to the amount of coolant they were receiving across the bearings. Remove the heater core. Make sure the heater, A/C and vacuum lines are all in place prior to securing the box. Repairing leak(s) will require removal of the entire dash assembly again. Remove the engine coolant supply and the return hoses attached to the heater core by removing the clamps and working them free. Moving to the passenger side carefully lift the bracket off of the 13mm bolt and secure it to the passenger side grab handle using a come-a-long strap. Disconnect the 1/2" and 5/8" A/C lines using a special tool available from most auto parts stores.
Remove the screws securing the upper and lower half of the heater box. Disconnect the vacuum line next to the A/C lines. The control knob just turns freely and does nothing what can I do to fix it. Knowing all of this, I talked myself into getting it done. Can you say "blocked air flow? Air Vent Selector Not Working?: the Blower Control Works Fine but. Remove the five screws where the dash meets the windshield interior cowl. Repositioning the dash assembly worked best for me with two pairs of hands. The two doors that governs flow between dash vents and defrost/floor are "mode door 1" and "mode door 2. " Engine Side of the Firewall. Heat won't transfer from vent to floor when put on floor heat blows from defrost. That is one of the benefits of having turbochargers that cool using both engine coolant and engine oil. I attached the directions below for the removal and replacement of both. While the box was apart I carefully cleaned the fan and the interior of the box.